How to Change RV Engine Oil the Right Way

By RVTroubleshoot Staff — Keeping your motorhome’s engine oil fresh isn’t just maintenance, it’s insurance. Whether you’re rolling in a diesel pusher or a gas Class A, clean oil keeps metal from grinding, heat under control, and breakdowns off your vacation schedule.

      Changing your own oil saves money, teaches you your rig, and gives peace of mind that the job was done right.
    

How Often Should You Change It?

Most motorhome owners follow their chassis manufacturer’s interval—typically every 5,000 to 7,500 miles for gas engines or 10,000 to 15,000 miles for diesel. But time matters, too. If your rig sits all winter, change it once a year regardless of mileage. Oil absorbs moisture and fuel residues even while parked.

Tools & Supplies You’ll Need

Socket set and oil filter wrench
Large drain pan (at least 10 qt.)
New oil filter (check engine model)
Correct grade and amount of engine oil
Funnel, gloves, rags
Wheel chocks and safety glasses

For diesel pushers, you may need a low-profile drain pan or an extension hose depending on how the drain plug is positioned.

Step-by-Step Process

1. Warm the Engine Slightly

Run the engine for five to ten minutes. Warm oil flows better and carries contaminants out more completely. Don’t get it hot enough to burn yourself — just warm.

2. Secure and Prepare

Park on a level surface, set the brake, and chock the wheels. Slide your drain pan beneath the oil pan plug. Have gloves on and tools ready — the first few seconds after loosening the plug can get messy.

3. Drain the Old Oil

Loosen the plug carefully and let it drain completely. This might take a few minutes. Check the plug washer; if it’s cracked or flattened, replace it to prevent leaks later.

4. Remove the Oil Filter

Spin it off counterclockwise. If it fights you, use a filter wrench. Wipe the mounting surface clean, and make sure the old gasket didn’t stick to the housing — that’s a common rookie mistake that causes leaks.

5. Prep and Install the New Filter

Dip your finger in fresh oil and coat the filter’s rubber gasket. Hand-tighten the new filter snugly—never wrench it down. Over-tightening can crush the gasket and cause slow leaks.

6. Refill the Crankcase

Replace the drain plug securely, then pour in about ¾ of the recommended capacity. Let it settle, then check the dipstick. Top off until it’s just below “Full.” Start the engine, let it run for 30 seconds, and recheck. Add as needed.

7. Clean Up and Record It

Wipe up drips, note the mileage and date, and store your receipts. Proper records help resale value and warranty claims. Pour your used oil into sealed containers and drop it off at an auto-parts store or recycling center.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Overfilling — too much oil can foam and reduce pressure.
Using the wrong viscosity — always match what’s on the fill cap or manual.
Skipping the filter — fresh oil through a dirty filter is wasted effort.
Not checking for leaks after the job — run the engine and inspect around the filter and drain plug.

Tips from the Road

If you’re traveling long distances, keep a spare quart or two of oil and a funnel in your storage bay. Some older rigs will burn a little oil on mountain grades or long highway days. Check your dipstick at every fuel stop — five seconds now can save five grand later.

      A clean oil change isn’t glamorous, but every smooth mile afterward is proof you did it right.
    

Final Thoughts

Changing your own oil is one of those small, satisfying jobs that keeps your RV reliable and teaches you how it breathes. Take your time, stay organized, and you’ll know more about your rig in one afternoon than most owners learn in a year. When you’re done, reset any service reminder light, grab a cold drink, and plan the next trip — your engine’s ready for it.